That’s one of the questions most people struggle with. Underwatering your plants could stunt growth, and excessive watering could result in fertilizer leaching and destroying your plants. You need to maintain the right water supply, but this is dependent on other factors.

Read on to learn more about the amount of water needed per gallon of soil and how to get the measurements right. 

How Much Water Per Gallon of Soil?

Getting the measurements right on the amount of water needed per gallon of soil will make your watering easier.  Typically, you need 5-10% water of the soil volume.  That means you’ll need to multiply the volume of the soil by 5% or 10%.

For example, if you have 10 gallons of soil, you’ll need half a gallon of water, and if you have 30 gallons of soil, you’ll need 1 ½ gallons of water. 

It’s essential to note that the above amounts will also depend on the container size, speed of growth, plant size, and vapor pressure deficit. 

When determining the amount of watering needed, you need to operate in the middle, which means less water, but introducing it more frequently. 

How Much Water Do Your Plants Need?

Unfortunately, there isn’t a set amount of water that your plants need. Other factors determine the amount required. These factors are:

Stage of Growth

Plants have different watering demands. For example, seedlings will need less water compared to more mature plants. It’s recommended to water once every two days depending on how fast the soil dries. 

Soil Drainage

The amount of water held in the soil is another essential factor that determines the amount of water needed and the frequency of watering. You’ll notice that compact soil tends to hold moisture for long, while sandy soil has low water retention and will need more water. 

If you have soil that holds water for long, you need to water less as the extra moisture can lead to nutrient deficiencies, root rot, and other issues. 

You can check if the water is draining properly by observing how the soil behaves. If you notice that the soil takes more than three days to dry out, that could indicate a drainage problem. In such a case, you may need to add something that will improve the air circulation of your soil and improve drainage. 

Container Size

The size of your container will dictate moisture retention and drainage. Growing a small plant in a big pot and drenching it with water can kill the plant. Also, growing a huge rooted plant in a small container will create other issues like lack of enough space or water. 

Signs That Your Plants Need Water

Some of the signs that your plants are thirsty and need water include:

Drooping, Wilting, and Weak Plants

Underwatered plants look lifeless and you’ll notice that the leaves appear wilted and will droop over time.  Be sure not to confuse this with plants that droop because of overwatering. Plants that are overwatered still have a bright green color and the leaves bend downwards. However, an underwatered plant looks dead and sickly. 

Brown or Yellow Leaves

Your plant will appear discolored if it’s underwatered. There’s a pale yellow or brown shade on the plants. Although blooming plants will start having yellow leaves, which is a natural and normal process, having yellow foliage that is dry indicates a watering issue. 

Dry Soil

One of the simplest ways to determine if you have a watering issue is to check your soil.  If you have dry upper soil with no sign of wetness, that indicates dry soil that needs watering. 

Signs That You Could be Overwatering the Plants

Although underwatering can be harmful to your plants, it’s easier for your plants to recover from it. However, overwatering can have a worse effect as it weakens the entire plant and drowns the roots.

Some of the signs to watch out for include:

Wet Soil and Wilting Plants

With overwatering, you’ll find wet soil and wilting plants. The plants will appear bent or curled and have an all-green color. 

Root Rot

The roots find it difficult to breathe when you overwater your plants. That means there will be no intake of water, oxygen, or nutrients required for the plant to thrive. You’ll also notice that any new growth falls from the plant and the leaves turn yellow. 

Conclusion

The best time to water your plant is when you notice that the first inch of the soil is dry. Although watering plants every day may not be a bad idea, you need to determine the best frequency based on the age of the plant, container size, and the drainage of the soil. 

Hopefully, you need to understand how much water per gallon of soil is required.  Understanding the above will help you grow healthy and thriving plants. 

While it’s well worth it to have to rake up the leaves, you may have heard talk about them making the soil where they fall more acidic and are now wondering whether or not that is true.

While oak leaves do have a reasonably acidic pH compared to other leaves, their pH turns very neutral by the time they start breaking down. So before you hurry out to go clear them from your lawn, understand that this means that it’s unlikely that they’ll have any effect on your soil, so no need to worry. 

Any acidity that does leach into the dirt while the leaves break down will quickly neutralize, not having any long-term effect on your grass or soil—no need to panic.

Is Oak Wood Acidic?

Like most wood species, oak does tend to be acidic. There are some species that fall on the milder side, although oak isn’t one of them. In fact, the main volatile compound that gets released by oak is acetic acid, which is also found in vinegar. 

So yes, the rumors are true that oak wood is acidic, although don’t make plans to cut down the one in your yard quite yet. 

While the acidity can be important to note if you’re working with oak in wood form, there is no need to be concerned about the oak tree growing in your yard making the soil more acidic. 

Luckily, it doesn’t work like that—just because a plant likes acidic soil or even is on the acidic side themselves, doesn’t mean it’ll turn the area around them that way.

Are Oak Leaves Too Acidic For Compost?

No, oak leaves luckily aren’t too acidic for the compost, so rake and compost away! In fact, oak leaves make an excellent addition to your compost pile, adding beneficial microorganisms as they break down. 

Like any organic matter, you add to your compost bucket, oak leaves as compost turn into a natural fertilizer, meaning healthy root development and improved disease and pest resistance from the microorganisms. 

As another bonus, you’ll be using fewer toxins and reducing waste by composting material from your own house and property, which is good for the planet and your wallet.

To help speed up the process of the leaves breaking down, you may want to shred them before adding them to your compost bin. This will make the process of the leaves turning into usable compost much faster, although it isn’t necessary, so don’t fret if you don’t have a way to shred them.

Do Oak Trees Kill Grass?

Nope, oak trees will not cause any harm to your grass. While they do have a more acidic pH than some other trees, this doesn’t mean anything bad for your yard or surrounding areas. Grass and oak trees can happily coexist; in fact, the fallen leaves of oak trees can even provide your yard with some benefits. 

Just like mulch would, when oak leaves break down, they release nutrients that are good for the growing plants. Along with that, it’s important to remember that as the leaves from oak trees begin to break down, they become less acidic. 

This means that there’s no need to worry about them changing your soil’s pH or harming your grass; they won’t do anything of the sort. As a mulch, they can add high levels of nitrogen to your soil, which your plants will love. 

In fact, oak leaves have been found to contain as much nitrogen as cow manure—and are a lot less stinky at that!

Are Oak Leaves Good For Garden Soil?

Oak leaves not only make a useable mulch; they make an absolutely excellent one! Whether you use it on your garden soil or on your grass, oak leaf mulch is lovely and full of many nutrients that your plants will benefit from. 

Turning the leaves into compost and then using that as the soil in your garden is another great way to incorporate oak leaves into your garden. 

You can also take the chopped-up leaves and mix them into your soil, as they’ll decompose and release their nutrients there, as well. To do this, spread a pile of the leaves out into a thin layer, and go over them with a lawnmower a few times. 

If you have a bag attachment on your mower, be sure to use it on the last pass, as this will save you the step of having to bag them up after. If not, then you’ll just have to bag them yourself before bringing them to your garden, which is entirely doable.

Next, you’ll want to spread the chopped-up oak leaves onto your garden bed in a layer, before working them into the soil with a shovel or tiller. If you want to speed up the breakdown process of the leaves, you can add blood meal or synthetic nitrogen fertilizer along with them. 

Either way, the oak leaves will provide the plants in your garden with many incredible and beneficial nutrients, leaving you with a happier and healthier garden.

Conclusion 

The misconception that the acidity of oak trees will harm the plants surrounding them is actually entirely false, and in fact, the exact opposite is found to be true. Despite being a more acidic tree, oaks have plenty to offer in terms of nutrients to the plants surrounding them. 

They won’t cause any harm, not even with the acidic leaves that they drop. As soon as they start to break down, oak leaves begin to turn less acidic, their pH changing to a more neutral level. 

This means that there’s no need to worry about them changing your soil’s pH level or killing your grass—these pretty leaves do nothing but help you and your property. 

Also read

Do Pine Needles Make Soil Acidic?

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Grass Clippings as Mulch – Pros and Cons

How to Get Rid of Pine Needles on Grass

However, what isn’t an accurate reflection are the areas that are growing things that you never planted in the first place. 

You most likely already know how pesky weeds can be and how to get rid of them in the areas where plants you care about live, but what about the places where you just want an empty patch of dirt? 

It doesn’t make sense to continually pull the weeds as they keep continuing to grow, which is a considerable effort if all you want is some empty soil. 

Luckily, since you don’t need to worry about sparing some plants while still killing off others, you have more options on how to get rid of the weeds that keep popping up. This article will go over the different options so that you can make an informed choice when it comes to properly sterilizing your soil.

Different Methods of Sterilizing Your Soil

1. Boiling Water 

Pouring boiling water on the patches of dirt that house those pesky weeds is an effective way to kill them once and for all. This practically cooks the plant while in the ground, stopping it from continuing to grow. 

This method also works great for killing plants that extend through the cracks in cement or in your driveway. Just be sure not to use this method too close to a plant that you do not wish to kill, as you can’t be selective with which plants the boiling water kills and which it doesn’t.

2. Vinegar

Another great and effective weed killer that you most likely already have at home is vinegar. Both white and apple cider vinegar will work in this case, as they both contain acetic acid. 

Take note that this method works best on younger plants and weeds, as there is a chance that older plants will be resilient enough to grow back from the energy stored in their root systems. Although if vinegar gets applied enough times to more established plants, eventually their energy stores will get depleted, and the plant will die.

3. Salt

There’s a reason that salting the fields of enemies was once a well-known war tactic—it really works. Enough salt will kill all plants and make the soil unsuitable for the growth of future plants, at least until it rains enough that the soil is thoroughly washed clear of it. 

Sprinkling table salt at the base of your unwanted plants will effectively kill them, washing away after a few showers of rain.

4. Rubbing Alcohol 

Used around the house to draw water out and evaporate it quickly, rubbing alcohol does the exact same thing to plants. Since water is like blood to a plant, this will effectively kill them. Just be careful not to get the rubbing alcohol on plants you wish to keep, as it is non-selective.

5. Corn Meal

This one is interesting because while it won’t kill plants that have already grown, it will prevent new weed seeds from ever developing and therefore sprouting and growing. Cornmeal is a pre-emergent, kind of like a plant birth control, if you will. 

This is an excellent method to use if you’ve already gotten rid of the weeds and plants from a patch of soil and want to ensure that no more will grow. 

Cornmeal works as a pre-emergent for both weeds and desired plants, so keep that in mind if you plan on using the patch of soil to plant some seeds anytime shortly after. Although if you plant already established plants in soil that you’ve sprinkled cornmeal in, it will have no effect on them, and they will grow happily.

6. Newspaper

This method is pretty much just smothering the weeds with newspaper until they die, but it is effective. You’ll want to lay down a layer of the newspaper that’s at least four pieces thick, although the more the better, since what you’re trying to do is stop the plants from getting any sun. 

This will also kill any new sprouts starting to grow since they won’t be getting any sun right from the get-go.

7. Vinegar, Salt, and Dishwashing Liquid Combo

This one involves making your own weed-killer concoction with things that you already have at home. This combination works incredibly well, each component helping the other to be more potent and more effective than they would be by themselves. 

To make this, you’ll mix two cups of ordinary table salt, one gallon of vinegar, and one teaspoon of liquid dishwashing soap. The soap is just to help break the surface tension so the mixture will stick to the plant you’re getting rid of, so you don’t need a large amount. 

You’ll start by dissolving the salt into the vinegar, either by shaking or stirring, then adding the soap in. 

Next, you’ll add the finished mixture into a regular garden sprayer and then apply it to any plants and weeds you don’t want. You’ll want to do this on a dry and sunny day so that the mixture doesn’t get diluted by rainwater. 

After that, the plants you applied it to should die and will not grow back. This mixture is a permanent solution, so make sure you won’t be planting anything in whatever patch of dirt you applied it to.

Conclusion

When it comes to gardening, there will always be setbacks and obstacles, but the end result and the fun along the way will always be worth it. While unwanted weeds are a bit of a nuisance, there are many ways to get rid of them once and for all—and as an extra bonus, with things that you most likely already have at home. 

Also read

What is the Difference Between Soil and Dirt?

If you’ve recently started dabbling in the world of garden care, you may have noticed that people seem to be pretty divided on whether or not grass clippings make for good mulch. In this article, we’ll go over all the pros and cons of mulching your garden with the clippings from your lawn.

What Exactly is Mulch?

Used to retain moisture in the soil and to suppress weeds, mulch is a material that is spread over the soil’s surface. It also helps keep the soil cool, preventing frost in the winter, and making garden beds look more attractive. Organic mulches—such as grass clippings—will decompose, improving your soil’s structure and providing it with nutrients. Mulch will help improve the soil’s health and fertility as it decomposes, setting you up to have even healthier plants in your garden.

Pros of Using Grass Clippings as Mulch

1. Grass Clippings Add Nitrogen Back Into the Soil

Using grass clippings to mulch your garden will add nitrogen back into the soil, which is essential to plants and grasses. Nitrogen helps plants grow and assists in giving them their bright colours, so you will have a more vibrant and lively garden. Since nitrogen is naturally occurring in grass, it’s a cheaper and less chemical-filled way to provide your plants with some of the nutrients they need.

2. Grass Clippings Add Phosphorus Back Into the Soil

Phosphorus is another nutrient that plants need to grow, and it’s also another nutrient found in grass clippings. Phosphorus is especially beneficial for the roots of plants, and understandably, healthy roots play a large part in growing a healthy plant. Overusing phosphorus can be quite bad for the environment, so by using grass clippings as mulch, you won’t be adding new phosphorus to your lawn or garden in chemical form.

3. Grass Clippings Add Potassium Back Into the Soil

Potassium is another vital nutrient that plants need that is also found in grass clippings. Potassium helps encourage healthier cell walls in plants, making them stronger and more resilient for times that they have to deal with things like drought or hold and cold periods. As an organic and non-chemical option for adding potassium to your garden, grass clippings are both environmentally and budget-friendly.

4. Helps Save Time and Energy While Mowing

If you mulch the grass clippings back into your lawn as you go by using a mulching mower, you’ll save yourself plenty of time and energy. You won’t have to keep emptying your lawnmower when it fills up or have to rake up grass clippings.

As if that didn’t sound appealing enough already, your lawn will also greatly benefit from being mulched with the clippings, leaving you with a healthier lawn and more time on your hands.

5. Grass Clippings are 100% Organic Lawn Care

Using grass clippings as mulch is a natural and organic way of adding nutrients back into the soil. If you don’t use a chemical fertilizer along with this mulching method, you’ll be keeping things completely organic. Reusing your grass clippings as mulch is an environmentally friendly way of providing your garden with nutrients, all while being 100% organic.

6. Especially Ideal For Large Lawns

The bigger the lawn, the more grass clippings you’ll have to remove after mowing. If you mulch your yard with its own clippings, it’ll prevent you from having to take the time to clean them up after. Along with that, you won’t have to use loads of chemical fertilizers in order to keep your huge yard healthy—using your grass clippings as mulch will help keep the soil healthy.

Cons of Using Grass Clippings as Mulch

1. If You Have Weeds Such As Crabgrass and Dandelions, Mulching Can Spread Them

Since mulching starts with chopping your grass clippings into a bunch of little pieces, the weeds will also be chopped up and combined into the mix. This can spread the spores of some weeds throughout your yard, resulting in more weeds. The best way to prevent this is to get your lawn weed-free before mulching.

2. It’s Not a Good Idea if You’ve Been Using Synthetic Fertilizers or Chemicals

Grass that has been grown using synthetic fertilizers and chemicals has had its structure altered, meaning it won’t decompose the same way that organically grown grass does. It’s best to lay off the fertilizer for a period before starting the process of mulching with your grass clippings.

3. In Damp or Wet Conditions, the Grass Can End Up in Large Clumps

If when you mulch your grass clippings, they’re wet, they’re more likely to end up forming big clumps. This has a negative effect on your lawn’s health, as the grass clumps will prevent the light from reaching the grass underneath. This will lead to dead patches on your lawn, so it’s always best to mulch when it’s drier outside.

4. Small Animals Like Voles and Shrews Can Be Attracted to Mulch

This is a problem that only occurs if you don’t mulch your grass correctly. If you attempt to mulch and don’t use the proper equipment, the grass will more than likely be too long and will turn into clumps on your yard.

This makes for a haven for little animals like voles and shrew, who can be quite destructive to your lawn. The solution to this is to mulch your lawn correctly, which will ensure that the grass pieces will be chopped tiny enough that small critters won’t be able to live there.

Conclusion

Using grass clippings to mulch your garden or yard is a cost-effective, environmentally friendly way to give your plants the nutrients they need. There are many pros—including being organic and practically free, but there are also some cons—such as attracting critters. If done correctly, though, using the clippings from your yard is an excellent and effective option for mulch.

If you’re curious about all the details of what exactly happens with your mulch after it’s spread, this article will go over everything you need to know.

What Exactly Is Mulch?

In order to better understand everything that mulch does, it’s helpful to know exactly what it is. Mulch is a material that gets spread over the soil’s surface, often made of bark, pine needles, or leaves.

It helps to retain the soil’s moisture, keep the soil cool, and to suppress weeds. They can also help improve the soil’s structure and nutrient levels, as well as make garden beds look more attractive.

There are two different forms of mulch—organic and inorganic. In the organic category are things like leaves and bark, as well as straw and grass clippings. These forms of mulch decompose and will need to be replaced, but in the process, they will improve your soil’s structure and organic content.

Full of nutrients that your garden and yard find necessary, organic mulch is incredibly beneficial if you want lush, healthy plants.

Next is inorganic mulch, which does a great job at blocking weeds and holding in moisture. This consists of synthetic materials like black plastic, landscape fabric, and stones, and gravel.

These don’t add any nutrients to your soil, but are great at their function and don’t decompose like organic mulch does. Many people like to add a thin layer of bark mulch over the plastic or fabric, which helps to cover it up and give it a more natural look.

How Long Does it Take for Mulch to Decompose?

1. Bark

Best used around trees, shrubs, or places you won’t be doing a lot of digging, bark mulch is a popular and long-lasting option. If left undisturbed and maintained properly, it can last from 7-10 years. For longevity, it helps if the bark mulch has constant contact with the soil underneath and receives water regularly. This helps the bark to shed in a relatively healthy way and to slow down degradation.

2. Grass Clippings

Grass clippings are best suited for more remote areas of your yard or garden since they have a high water content and therefore decompose very quickly, which can bring a somewhat unpleasant odour. It’s best to use a mulching mower with grass clippings to ensure that they get distributed properly, as there is a risk of them being spread too thick and suffocating the grass below.

3. Shredded Leaves

Shredded leaves are a very versatile option that comes with the bonus of being free. They can be used almost everywhere, although a popular choice is using them in vegetable gardens since they’ll bring more earthworms.

Shredded leaf mulches tend to break down fairly quickly and blend into the soil, so that’s something to keep in mind if you’re worried about this mulch option being somewhat unsightly. When using leaf mulch, it’s a good idea to make sure the leaves are shredded, as unshredded leaves may end up matting together and repelling rain.

4. Straw and Hay

Mostly popular in vegetable gardens, straw and salt hay are a somewhat long-lasting, nice-looking option to use as mulch. They decompose quite slowly, lasting the entire growing season all while keeping soil-borne diseases from reaching the lower plant leaves. Straw and hay mulch also makes for a nice home for beneficial insects like spiders, who will assist in keeping the pest population under control.

5. Plastic and Landscape Fabric

Moving on to inorganic mulches, plastic, and landscape fabric makes for a good choice around foundation plantings such as shrubs and trees. Since you won’t be working in and around these beds regularly, you don’t want to have to worry about going in and weeding throughout the summer, which the layer of plastic or fabric will prevent entirely.

The plastic gets very hot in the summer, killing off any weed seeds before they even get the chance to grow. Unfortunately, this means that it’ll also kill many good things in the soil, such as microbes and plant roots. In order to prevent this, make sure there is sufficient moisture by cutting holes in the fabric to allow water to pass through.

Plastic and landscape fabric are inorganic materials, meaning they won’t decompose the way organic mulches do. While they’ll last a long time in your garden, they’ll also eventually start to break down and will stop doing their job as well, so they will need to be replaced at some point.

6. Stone and Gravel

Stone and gravel work wonderfully as mulches in areas that like a little extra heat or require good drainage. They can also provide a very appealing look and can help cater to a certain aesthetic, and last an incredibly long time.

This is great if you want something you can just set and forget, although if somewhere down the line you want to change out your mulch, it will require some effort to remove all the stone. However, that may be very much worth it for this good-looking, low-maintenance mulch.

Conclusion

Mulching your yard or garden brings many great benefits, although deciding which mulch to use requires a fair bit of research and planning.

Organic mulches all decompose over varying time spans, which is an okay trade-off considering all the nutrients they add to your soil. Inorganic mulches take much longer to break down and are often lower maintenance, but they don’t add much in terms of nutrients to your garden or yard.

When deciding which mulch to go with, it’s a great idea to consider the decomposition time—something that will happen to all organic mulches.

If you want something that doesn’t break down quite so fast, going the inorganic route might be for you. Either way, there are many great benefits to mulching your garden, and with all the different mulches out there, there’s an option for everyone!

That includes fertilizer, and not just deciding on which kind, but also when to apply it.

If you’ve already decided on the tried and true Milorganite but are still unsure about exactly when to use it, this article will go over the options so you can make the best decision for your yard.

The answer to the whether or not you should apply Milorganite before it rains question isn’t a direct yes or no. While it is okay to apply it before rain, it’s also essential that said rainfall isn’t too heavy, or it’ll wash the fertilizer away before it has a chance to soak in.

Since it can be difficult to predict precisely how heavy the rain will be, it’s best to apply your Milorganite when the weather calls for little to no rain for the next day or two.

This will ensure that none of your fertilizer will get washed away.

When Should You Put Down Milorganite?

A good time to apply Milorganite is after the last frost and once your grass is beginning to grow.

If you want to get more technical, waiting until the daytime temperature is consistently above 15 degrees Celsius is an excellent rule of thumb.

This will mean that your soil will be around 10 degrees, which is warm enough to start fertilization.

How Long Should Fertilizer Be Down Before it Rains?

While a little water can help speed up the absorption process, too much will wash it away before it has a chance to soak in. J

ust to play it safe, it’s a good idea to have the fertilizer down for a couple of days before the forecast calls for rain.

At least 36 hours is ideal, although longer is better.

Do You Water After Applying Milorganite

Milorganite is a fertilizer that doesn’t require watering after application, which is one of its unique and great features.

It is, however, a good idea to water your lawn a couple of days before Milorganite application so that your soil is damp.

While it isn’t at all necessary to water it after application, you can speed up the fertilization and absorption process by watering it very lightly. Just be careful not to overwater and wash it all away!

Will Rain Wash Away Milorganite?

Heavy rainfall soon after Milorganite application, unfortunately, will wash it away, yes. It’s okay if it drizzles lightly—and can even be a positive thing—but since it’s hard to predict just how heavy a rainfall will be, it’s best to just wait until the forecast calls for no rain at all. You don’t want your purchase to be put to waste.

Conclusion

While it is exciting to start the process of growing a beautiful yard, it does pay off to have some patience.

Planning out not only what you’ll use to fertilize but also when you’ll do it can really make a difference in how your lawn turns out.

Checking what the weather is supposed to do in terms of both temperature and precipitation is a great idea, and can help guarantee a wonderful start to this year’s yard.

It’s best to pick a stretch of a few cloud-free days to apply your Milorganite, to ensure that none of the product gets washed away by any potential rainfall.

If you do decide to fertilize right before a rainy day, try and make sure that it’s only supposed to sprinkle, not downpour. Your lawn will thank you for this—happy fertilizing!

Also read

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Milorganite vs. Scotts Turf Builder – whats better

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Milorganite vs Ironite – Difference and Comparison

Best Milorganite Alternatives for Your Lawn

Should You Apply Milorganite Every Month?

Choosing the appropriate type of mulch can make a significant difference in how well it withstands windy conditions. Heavier materials are less likely to be displaced, while lighter organic options may necessitate extra measures to secure them. In addition to the type of mulch, how it is prepared and applied to garden beds can influence its ability to resist being blown away. Proper installation includes distributing it evenly and combining it with stabilizers when necessary.

Types of Mulch to Prevent Blowing Away

Choosing the right type of mulch is essential to prevent it from being displaced by the wind. Heavier and more interconnected materials tend to stay put better than lighter options.

Organic Mulches

• Ground Pine Bark: For those seeking both functional and decorative purposes, ground pine bark is an optimal choice. Pine bark’s weight helps it resist being blown away, making it ideal for wind-prone areas.
• Wood Chips & Bark: These materials are not only aesthetically pleasing but also heavier, which reduces the likelihood of being scattered by wind. Theyinterlock which helps to keep them in place.
• Straw Mulch: Although lighter, straw can be effective if layered properly and sometimes combined with a stabilizing underlayer like leaf mulch or compost to increase wind resistance.
• Leaf Mulch: It’s advantageous for gardeners to use their own leaves as mulch, which can be shredded to improve their ability to settle and stay put.
• Compost: A nutrient-rich option that’s generally denser than other organic mulches, compost has good wind resistance when properly applied to the garden.

Inorganic Mulches

• Plastic & Landscape Fabric: These are designed to be laid over soil and can be covered with heavier organic mulches for improved stability against the wind.
• Stones, Gravel, & Pebbles: They are among the best options in windy environments due to their weight. However, they don’t provide the same soil enrichment benefits that organic mulches do.

Ways to Keep Mulch from Blowing Away

Here are some ways to safeguard mulch from being blown away.

Mulch Netting and Fabrics

The use of mulch netting, typically made of materials like polypropylene plastic or jute, can also be an effective method to keep mulch in place. The netting is placed over the mulch, and then landscape fabric staples are used to anchor it to the soil, preventing movement. Similarly, using landscape fabric underneath a layer of mulch can add stability and further assist in weed suppression, while jute netting provides a natural and biodegradable option for erosion control and mulch stabilization.

Edging and Barriers

Edging serves as a physical boundary that prevents mulch from scattering due to wind. Different materials such as wood, metal, bricks, or concrete can be used as landscape edging to contain mulch within garden beds. The use of bricks or stones can create a firm border that withstands wind pressure.

Weighting Down with Rocks or Stones

Placing rocks or stones on top of mulch adds weight, helping to hold the mulch in place during high winds. Larger stones or decorative pebbles can be strategically distributed across the mulched area to secure the lighter particles underneath.

Creating Windbreaks

Windbreaks, such as fences or plantings of conifers and shrubs, reduce wind speed and protect mulched areas. They act as a shield against harsh winds and can be both functional and aesthetically pleasing elements in a garden.

Utilizing Ground Cover

Ground cover plants form a living mesh that helps secure mulch underneath. Low-growing plants intertwine, creating a natural mat that aids in anchoring mulch and reducing wind impact.

Mulch Glue

A specialized product known as mulch glue can be applied to mulch, forming a sticky bond that holds particles together. This can be especially useful to prevent mulch from blowing away in areas prone to storms or consistent high winds.

Choosing the Right Mulch

Heavier mulches, such as bark chips, are less likely to be disturbed by wind compared to lighter materials like straw. Opting for a heavier mulch can be a simple yet effective way to keep your garden beds intact.

Special Considerations for Different Scenarios

When applying mulch in various settings, it’s important to consider factors such as topography, plant type, and external influences. These considerations ensure that the mulch remains effective and in place despite the challenges each scenario presents.

Mulching on Slopes

Slopes can be challenging due to the potential for erosion and mulch displacement. Employing erosion control tactics, such as laying landscape wood chips in an interlocking fashion, can reduce movement. Additionally, terracing or installing woven geotextile fabric underneath the mulch can offer stability against gravity and water run-off.

Protecting Plants and Flowers

For garden areas filled with plants and flowers, including delicate species like lavender, it’s essential to use gentler methods. Wind barriers constructed from natural materials or burlap can shield against harsh conditions. Securing mulch with a light layer of straw can also provide a safeguard that is both effective and aesthetically pleasing.

Safeguarding Against Pets and Children

In areas where pets and children play, it’s vital to select mulch that is non-toxic and larger in size, making it difficult for animals or kids to move or ingest. Edging can also define spaces, deterring animals and children from disturbing the garden areas.

Dealing with Persistent High Winds

High winds require robust solutions. Heavier mulch options such as rubber shards or crushed stone are less likely to be displaced. Constructing wind barriers using dense shrubbery or fences can significantly reduce the velocity of the windy conditions, protecting the mulch-covered landscape.

Key Takeaways

• Mulch stabilizes soil temperature and retains soil moisture.
• The right type and application of mulch can resist wind displacement.
• Regular maintenance ensures the longevity and effectiveness of mulched areas.

However, with all these problems, clay soil has its benefits. It not only can hold in nutrients that your grass needs, but also hold moisture better than other soil types. With some amendments like incorporating organic matter, you can easily improve clay soil and turn this sticky clay into hums-rich soil that is fertile enough to support a beautiful lawn.

What is clay soil?

This is soil that is made up of very fine mineral particles that are heavy and dense that hold onto water instead of letting it drain off. Clay soil doesn’t have many organic particles like loam soil and is very compact which makes it hard for plant roots to get well established. When it comes to your lawn, not all grass seeds can grow in clay soil.

Amending clay soil

It’s possible to improve the condition of clay soil to allow you to grow a thick, healthy, and green lawn. Adding organic matter like organic compost, composted leaves, pine bark, and gypsum to clay soil can help to improve its structure and help to remove its compaction and drainage problems. Organic matter will also add nutrients, lighten the soil’s texture, moderate the soil’s temperature, improve drainage and aeration, and provide pore space that is important for plants to grow.

As a general rule if possible, add 3-6 inches of organic matter to your soil before planting and mix it with the top 10-12 inches soil where the roots grow. In the next years keep adding a top dressing of 1-3 inches of organic matter each year and as it decomposes it helps to improve the clay soil.

Organic matter

Steps to improve clay soil by applying organic matter

• Before you start adding organic matter, you need to first have a soil test done to determine the amount of nitrogen, potassium, phosphorous and other nutrients lacking in the soil. You can ask your county’s extension office for assistance in testing the soil or get a soil test kit.
• Aerate clay soil regularly to allow oxygen and water to freely move through the soil. It also helps to remove plugs of dirt from your lawn and break up the soil which allows the grassroots to spread. Aerate when the ground thaws when the soil is moist during the growing season. It’s best to aerate warm season grasses in early summer and cool-season grasses in early spring or fall and late spring.
• Use a tiller if your yard is large or a spade if it’s a small lawn to loosen the existing soil. Spread about 2 inches of the organic matter on top of the tilled area and mix it well and repeat this process twice. Ensure that the clay soil is relatively dry because working with wet clay soil can seriously damage its structure that you’re working to improve. The best time to do this job is during autumn when it’s drier than springtime and it’s a bit cooler.
• Install a drainage system because clay soil grains slowly and can easily get saturated, especially when there are heavy rains or snow. A lawn drainage system will help to transfer the water from one area to another using pipe or tiles like a waterway or man-made bed.
• Overseed in the fall when the grass has aged and dried up. Mow your lawn using the lowest setting then rake thoroughly as this will allow the seeds to fall closer to the soil which will give them a better chance of taking hold. Use your hands to spread the seeds or a push spreader, then water and cover with straw to prevent birds from snacking on your seeds. Seed again in early to mid-spring.
• In the long term, regular application of manure, compost, and other organic matter will continue to improve the tilth, structure, and overall health of your soil. This will make it easier to work in and easier for your plant to take root. Choose grasses that are naturally adapted to growing in clay soil to give your lawn a better chance of flourishing.
• Stay off your lawn because clay soil will eventually compact, especially in areas with heavy foot traffic. Also, avoid excessive mowing and rough playing when the ground is wet. You can install a sidewalk, lay stepping stones, or make a path near the entrances and your kid’s play areas to avoid stepping on your lawn.
• Mulch your lawn regularly. Leaving grass clippings and leaves on your grass will allow them to decompose and provide nutrients to the soil and also attract friendly earthworms that snack on the mulch and fertilize the soil as they move through it.
• Water the soil deeply and infrequently because clay soil has a problem with shallow grassroots and light shallow watering will cause the roots to reach upwards in search of water. Use a sprinkler with a timer to water your lawn 1 inch per week.

Things you shouldn’t do

While mulching is great, mulching too many at once isn’t. Don’t try to mulch a thick layer of bur oak leaves instead mulch it a bit at a time or bag some. Leaves from the silver maple trees can be turned into the dust which means you can use large amounts for mulching.

• Don’t add sand into your clay soil as it will turn it concrete-like soil.
• Don’t mow your lawn short because dry soil will result in rock hard soil that isn’t good for your lawn grass.
• Don’t add wood chips to your lawn because they drain the nitrogen from the soil when they decompose.
• Don’t allow your clay soil to dry out because it will become extremely hard and this will make it harder for water and nutrients to get through down into the soil. Keep it moist even during the dry season.

Gypsum

Gypsum is very easy to apply to the soil surface with the help of a lawn spreader.

It’s a great way of improving relieving compaction, increases water penetration, improves drainage, correct soil conditions to allow for better plant root growth, and improving the soil structure in your existing lawn.

Gypsum also adds essential plant nutrients like sulfur and calcium to your soil without affecting its pH. By adding gypsum to your lawn or vegetable garden, it will help to prevent calcium deficiency which is the main cause of blossom end rot disease.

Grass seeds for clay soil

Knowing the best grass seeds to plant in your lawn will depend on whether you live in a warm or cool climate. If you live in a warmer climate, you’ll need grass seeds that can thrive in the heat or if you live in the cooler climate, you’ll need grasses that can do well even in extreme cold.

How to choose grass seed for clay soil

Type of seeds

This will depend on the kind of grass you want to plant if it’s one type to give you a uniform look like a golf course or a mixture of different grasses if you need the benefits for all. Most people like mixed grass seeds that will give you features like drought-tolerant, durability, insect protection, and many others in one.

Seasons

It’s very important to purchase grass seasons according to the season for better results. You can choose cool or warm season grass seeds depending on the climate in your area. Warm-season grasses can tolerate high heat and are drought resistant and are best planted in early Spring. The cool-season grasses can tolerate extremely cool temperatures and can grow even in snow and are best planted in Fall.

Traffic resistant

Most homeowners worry about how much traffic their grass can handle, especially if you have kids and pets who love to play on the lawn. Look for grass that is high traffic resistant.

Types of grass seeds

Cool-season grasses

If you live in colder climates or up north, cool-season grasses are the best option for your lawn because they thrive when it’s colder outside, especially during autumn and spring, and also adapt and survive even harsh winters.

These grasses become dormant when it’s hot outside during the summer season. The best cold season grass is tall fescue because it can handle dense clay soil very well and it has a reliable root system. Its deep roots allow it to handle the heat and low water conditions.

Warm-season grasses

These grasses thrive in hotter climates, especially during the summer, and become dormant when the weather becomes cool.

Warm-season grasses can’t tolerate the cold very well and grasses like Zoysia will do well in clay soil because of its robust root system which can grow through dense soil.

Tall fescue grass

This is an ideal grass for your clay soil lawn. As a cool-season grass, you should avoid planting it in places that experience hot weather. It has a coarse texture, but some varieties have finer blades that include the dwarf turf-type and turf-type fescue.

The tall fescue grass has roots that can penetrate deep into the ground and can do better in clay soil with a high organic matter content.

It will grow well if planted in partial shade or full sun.

Bermuda grass

Some people love the Bermuda grass because of its striking and beautiful emerald green shade that you will find in golf courses and public parks. Bermuda grass can grow quite well in clay soil, but as a warm-weather grass, it will not fare well in cold areas. This type of grass can be used in high traffic areas and also in pasture areas. It will grow well in clay soils because of its root system that produces deep rhizomes and can grow vigorously if left unchecked.

It does well in very wet areas that get lots of sunlight, but may not be the best grass if you have a very shady area.

Buffalo grass

This is another grass you can grow in clay soil that is drought tolerant and can handle the low water conditions in clay soil and is perfect for low maintenance areas.

It requires minimal care and watering. This grass goes dormant in November-January then in March and April it starts becoming green.

It has a deep root system that makes it perfect for growing in clay soil and is better suited for urban and suburban lawns and can also be used as fodder in pasture areas.

Kentucky bluegrass

This grass will also do well in clay soil and a cooler environment.

It’s good for high traffic areas like golf courses and playgrounds, your front lawn, or in a pasture.

This grass prefers sunny areas and will not do well in places with lots of shade.

Conclusion

Clay soil may be hard to work with if you’re trying to plant grass, but if you take steps to improve and maintain it, you’ll enjoy the benefits clay has to offer and get healthy soil and grass.

FAQ

What is the best fertilizer for clay soil?

If you’re gardening in clay soil, you can use granulated fertilizer, organic fertilizer, liquid fertilizer, and slow-release fertilizer.

Can you add too much gypsum to the soil?

Most farmers use gypsum to salvage alkaline soils, but applying too much into the soil can eliminate essential nutrients from the soil like iron, aluminum, and manganese which can lead to poor plant growth.

]]> https://thankyourlawn.com/how-to-grow-grass-in-clay-soil/feed/ 0 https://thankyourlawn.com/grass-root-depth/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=grass-root-depth https://thankyourlawn.com/grass-root-depth/#respond Tue, 17 Nov 2020 16:31:50 +0000 https://thankyourlawn.com/?p=152 Read more]]> Establishing a beautiful, lush green turf takes a lot of work and patience. Seeding, watering, fertilizing, and weeding is part of the process and a great way of promoting healthy lawn growth.

However, all that work may be for nothing if your grass doesn’t have deep roots. Without deep roots your grass can easily get damaged and may not be able to reach the nutrients in the soil it needs to thrive.

Deep roots will help your lawn survive stressful conditions which are why creating a healthy, deep root system is an important part of lawn maintenance.

But how deep do grassroots grow? Lawn grasses planted in healthy soil will usually have a root depth of 6’’-2’ with a long, white, and dense root system. However, the root depth will greatly depend on the health of the underlying soil and your lawn care maintenance schedule.

Grass Rooth Depth Chart

How to Achieve Deep Root Growth in your Lawn

The first thing that comes to mind when you look at your lawn is the healthy and green leaf blades, but you don’t often think about what goes on underneath the soil that makes the grass blades green, thick, and healthy.

The grass root system is very important to the overall health of your lawn.

There are many ways you can encourage deep and healthy root growth.

• Mowing

Adjusting the cutting height of your mower can help to encourage deep root growth, but don’t cut more than 1/3 of the grass blades when mowing.

Mowing creates stress by removing growth which will cause the grass to respond by growing deeper roots so that it can sustain more leaf growth and the leaves grow taller.

Consistent mowing will help create dense, deep root systems.

Warm-season grasses tend to grow outward not upward so you need to use shorter mowing heights.

However, cool-season grasses grow upward which makes it a bit harder to establish a thick, dense lawn, but they grow taller which makes them look fuller.

• Watering

Watering your lawn frequently doesn’t automatically mean you have a healthy lawn, it might even actually be hurting your lawn.

This is because watering frequently can create shallow roots growth, but the key is to water deeply less frequently.

Deep infrequent watering creates stress by allowing the roots to dry out so the grass grows down in search of available water.

However, it’s important that your lawn stays well-hydrated to sustain deep root growth since this allows moisture to penetrate deeper into the roots when you water your lawn.

To create and sustain deep root systems, you should water your lawn twice a week in spring, twice a week in early summer, thrice a week in mid to late summer, twice a week in early fall, and once a week in late fall.

Ensure the water is 1-1 ½ inches deep.

• Soil condition

The condition of your soil plays an important role in the development of deep root growth. Heavy clay soil will retain water very well, but it will also compact easily reducing the air pockets that provide your grass with the oxygen needed to thrive.

Adding organic matter like compost will add important nutrients needed for root growth and help loosen the soil to create more room for more air pockets.

• Use correct fertilizer

A slow-release fertilizer is the best for promoting grass root growth by releasing nutrients slowly that are distributed over a long period.

As opposed to using a fast release fertilizer that is less expensive but it releases all the nutrients at once and most of the nutrients aren’t used by the plants and don’t reach below the root zone.

Mineral fertilizers have a high salt content so you need to water your lawn to keep it from burning. If the conditions are conducive, about 80% can reach below the root zone which will be used to help develop deep grass root growth.

• Check the soil pH

Different grass types require slightly different soil pH to grow best in and if your soil doesn’t have the required pH, you can easily adjust it.

First, take a soil sample to your local extension office to check the soil pH. You can add organic matter if the soil pH is slightly off, if not use limestone for acidic soils or sulfur for alkaline soils where needed.

• In-ground irrigation system

An in-ground irrigation system can help promote deep root growth in your lawn.

By using weather sensor technology and programmable settings, you can eliminate the guesswork and hassle you’ll put into watering your lawn.

You can come up with a watering schedule that will take into account the amount of moisture your lawn has received from nature and the amount of water it needs to stimulate healthy deep roots.

How to Develop Deep Roots in Grass

Getting your grass to grow deep roots is mostly a matter of ensuring the soil underneath your grass has enough moisture.

• Find out how deep the roots are for your grass by digging into the soil or using a soil probe to check the root depth. Grass that is properly established should have roots that are several inches deep.
• Water your lawn weekly with 1-2 ½ inches of water or more if needed so it can penetrate the soil about an inch below the current root depth. Your grass won’t develop deeper roots if there’s no water beneath the current root growth.
• Remove any excess thatch with a rake or dethatching blades if the water isn’t penetrating the soil as it should. Thatch which is dead organic matter from grass clippings and leaves if left to buildup can form a barrier over your soil that prevents enough water, air, and sunlight from penetrating the soil and this will starve your grass.
• Use a core aerator to aerate your lawn which will help to reduce soil compaction and improve water penetration. The core aerator will break through the thatch and allow air into the compacted soil as it removes small soil plugs on your lawn.
• Mow your lawn regularly and ensure your cutting blade height is about 2 1/2 – 3 inches tall so that the grass will provide some shade so that the soil stays moist and you also leave enough grass for photosynthesis and plant growth.

What Causes Shallow Root Growth?

Apart from improper watering and mowing practices, other factors can cause your lawn grass to grow shallow roots.

Compacted soil is one of the most common causes of an unhealthy lawn because it causes a very solid layer that is impenetrable and if nothing is done about it, your lawn will grow on compacted soil and continue being stressed.

Most of the time clay soil is always compacted because of its fine soil particles which can also hold water and prevent proper drainage, so the roots don’t grow deeper in search of water.

The best way to address this issue is to adjust your watering and mowing schedules to encourage deep root growth, aerate, and use compost as a topdressing in spring and fall.

After some time the roots will be able to break up the compaction as the soil conditions improve.

Your lawn may also have shallow root growth if you’ve planted shallow-rooted grasses.

Bentgrass and Kentucky bluegrass are some of the lawn grasses with the weakest root systems. Improving your soil’s roots conditions can help, but these grasses will never develop a deep root system.

Symptoms your Lawn grass has Unhealthy Root Systems

The most common problem with lawns is unhealthy roots and stressed roots lead to stressed plants that are more vulnerable to pests and diseases.

• Weed infestation

If you have a weed infestation in your lawn this is a sign that there’s something wrong with your soil and your lawn’s roots are stressed.

Weeds mostly thrive in poor soil conditions, so you need to check the condition of your soil by doing a soil test. Also, check for compaction by trying to dig out a clump of grass.

If it’s very difficult your soil is compacted which also means it has a nutrient imbalance.

Consider aerating your lawn in spring or fall and add compost as a topdress.

Spraying herbicides is only a temporary solution, but mowing your lawn frequently will help stop the spread of the weed seeds so they can’t reproduce.

By practicing healthy lawn maintenance and with improved soil conditions, your lawn grass will grow thick and healthy which will choke out the weeds.

• Wilting

If you’re walking on your lawn and you can see your footprints, it means your lawn is suffering from water stress. You can quickly solve this problem by watering your lawn thoroughly the next morning, but if you allow your lawn to stay wilted for many days, the roots will continue to wilt and die from lack of water.

Wilting can also be caused by overwatering making your lawn wilted and soggy which is a more serious problem.

If you overwater your lawn, allow the soil to dry as much as possible before using the 1-2-3-2-1 watering schedule to ensure you don’t over or underwater your lawn again, although roots can handle moisture better than a lot of moisture.

If your lawn gets overwatered from heavy rains, improve the drainage of your lawn by aerating and using compost to prevent oversaturation in the future.

• Brown or yellow leaves

The most common cause of dead patches on your lawn is grubs that feed on your lawn’s roots during their larvae stage which causes severe stress on your lawn grass.

Dig up a patch on your lawn to help you identify the grub species and the best treatment, then apply preventative insecticides in spring and carry out curative measures in the fall.

Warm-season grasses tend to rejuvenate faster from dead patches than cool-season grasses because they grow faster through spreading. If your lawn is severely infested with grub, you can overseed your cool-season grass to help your lawn recover faster.

• Circles pop up in the grass

If you notice mysterious grass circles also called fairly rings appearing on your lawn in your healthy-looking lawn, it’s a sign that there’s fungus in your soil. You may also find mushrooms growing in a circle.

The fungus in your soil will cause the circle of grass to be greener initially than the rest of the grass because there’s more organic matter in that circle that provides nutrients to the soil and more moisture.

However, as the fungus grows deeper into the soil it starts to deny the grass roots nutrients and moisture.

The best solution is to apply a fungicide on only the affected areas, but if it doesn’t work, you’ll have to dig up the circle and plant new grass.

Conclusion

Maintaining a healthy lawn is more about your long-term maintenance practices and by improving your soil you’ll allow the roots to support healthy and vigorous growth that will prevent weeds from invading your lawn and be more resistant to pests and diseases.

Also read

How Long Does Grass Live?

How High can Grass Possibly Grow before Folding Over?

References and sources

Grass Growth and Regrowth for Improved Management

Grass root Growth

That’s why it’s important to know your garden’s soil pH levels before planting anything.

According to Almanac.com most plants do well when the soil pH is between 6.0 -7.5, but you need to know the plants you’re growing and what they need.

Some plants thrive well in alkaline conditions than acidic conditions and a soil test will help you know your current pH levels.

An easy and organic way of raising the pH in the soil is to use baking soda. It’s the fastest, most affordable, and effective way, and it only takes a few days to see the results.

It’s gentle on the soil and plants so you don’t have to worry about harming your plants. You just mix a tablespoon of baking soda with a gallon of water, but you can reduce or add this amount depending on the size of your garden.

Be careful not to use too much baking soda to avoid creating an imbalance in the soil.

Method on How to Raise pH in Soil With Baking Soda

There are many methods you can use to raise the soil pH, but baking soda is not only useful in cooking and cleaning, but it’s also helpful in your garden.

Since you already have baking soda in your home, you don’t need to make any investments to raise the soil pH levels. This is a convenient solution when you need a quick fix.

Step 1: Determine the soil pH

Test the soil pH levels using a pH meter or a pH test kit like the one above and follow the simple instructions so you can know whether to increase or decrease the pH levels.

You can send a soil sample to the lab or do a simple homemade pH test using vinegar and baking soda.

Take two separate soil samples from the same spot, add distilled water, and stir. Add a tablespoon of baking soda in one and stir and if it bubbles your soil is acidic.

Add the same amount of vinegar to the other sample and stir and if it starts to foam your soil is alkaline. If both tests don’t produce any results, your soil is neutral.

Step 2: Add baking soda

If you need to raise your soil pH, you’ll need to add baking soda and the best way is to mix it into the soil before planting. You can also use baking soda on already growing plants.

To achieve the best results, mix a tablespoon of baking soda with a gallon of water depending on the size of your garden. Then apply the mixture into your soil then till your land to mix it well. Add this mixture a few months before planting so it settles and stabilizes.

Step 3: Water Regularly

You’ll need to water your garden very well to activate the baking soda.

However, don’t overdo it to avoid washing away the baking soda and other essential nutrients in the soil as well.

Since tap water is alkaline, it can also help in raising the soil pH levels.

Step 4: Check the pH levels

After applying baking soda, check to see if there are any changes.

If you’ve used the right amount of baking soda you should see a rise in the pH levels even after a day.

Keep testing and adjusting the pH levels after a few months to achieve the desired results for healthy plant growth. Also, check your soil after heavy rains and when adding fertilizer because it can affect the soil’s pH levels. 

Alternative Ways of Raising your Soil’s pH

Apart from using baking soda, there are other ways you can raise the pH levels in your soil.

Lime or limestone

Raising the soil’s pH is often referred to as liming because the compounds mostly used contains lime.

Lime helps to add magnesium and calcium into your soil and it reacts with the soil to reduce the solubility of manganese and aluminum, elements that lower your soil pH levels.

Liming materials come in different forms that include calcitic lime that contains calcium carbonate and dolomitic lime that contains high amounts of magnesium carbonate.

You can either use these liming materials as an application that you put on the soil surface, which will only change the pH of the top inch of the soil, or mix it into the soil.

Since these materials have limited solubility, you’ll need to raise your soil pH quickly before tiling your land.

You should give lime enough time to react before planting or add water to quicken the reaction because it reacts slowly with dry soil.

Wood ashes

Wood ash is also a perfect choice and a more natural and organic way of raising your soil pH levels, although it will take longer and it’s not as effective as baking soda.

However, it will add some essential micronutrients into your soil that include calcium, phosphate, potassium, and boron.

Add the wood ash in thin layers and for every square yard, use 2 ounces of ash.

Although it doesn’t have a quick reaction like baking soda, with time it will drastically increase your soil pH so you need to keep a close eye on your soil.

However, wood ash can damage the germinating plants and roots in your garden, so make sure the ash doesn’t come in contact with them.

The best time to use wood ash is during winter and give it a month or two to work before planting to avoid plant damage. It’s best used only when your soil pH is below 6.5 and it gives great results on sandy soils.

Although this method is highly effective when done properly, it’s very easy to oversaturate the soil with ash, so if you add more than 2 pounds of wood ash on a 100 sq. feet area per year, you can interfere with your plant’s ability to absorb nutrients.

Soil types and their pH levels

The soil pH scale number ranges from 1.0 – 14.0 with any value below 6.5 indicating the acidity level of the soil so the lower the value the more acidic your soil is.(Source)

Values higher than 7.0 show the alkalinity of your soil with a higher number being higher alkaline levels.

Conclusion

Changing the soil pH in your garden can give you varying results which can result in your plants flourishing or having poor growth.

Using baking soda in the correct way to raise your soil pH is not only cheap and effective, but it’s also organic so you don’t harm your plants in the process.

This will go a long way in making your plant flourish. 

Aslo read

How to Kill Crabgrass with Baking Soda – Complete Step by Guide

Does baking soda kill weeds

How deep does grass roots grow?

Sources and Further Reading

Raising low soil ph

Changing the ph of your soil 

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